California Part IV: Deetjen’s



While in Big Sur we stayed at Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn. Built in the 1930s the place is cute and rustic. I hate to use this phrase but the place has a certain shabby chic to it–a charming little inn that time forgot. It also has extremely comfortable beds and a really good restaurant that lands squarely on the side of fine dining. It was a wonderfully cozy place to snuggle up on the cool May nights that we stayed there.

California Part III: On the Road to Big Sur





Pictures (top to bottom): 1. Somewhere near Pebble Beach, 2. the other Mr. MyPorch’s penchant for succulants and gardening in general means lots of pictures like this one, 3. the beach in Carmel, 4. me eating something overlooking Carmel’s beach, 5. coastline south of Carmel.

After leaving Santa Cruz we headed down Highway 1 on our way to Big Sur. The weather was clear and cool–perfect for traveling. The route has so many beautiful views it is hard not to stop at them all. But, being the goal-oriented person that I am I had to make a real effort to stop and smell the ocean from time to time. Sometimes I think if it weren’t for the other Mr. MyPorch I would be like George Costanza–always in some imaginary race trying to “make good time.” In addition to stopping at a few beautiful spots along the way we also took some time out to see Carmel-by-the-Sea and its beautiful town beach right at the end of the main drag. The term main drag is a little misleading, it is really a picturesque street lined with a whole lot of expensive boutiques and the overall visual effect at least is charming.

California Part II: The B&B-hater’s B&B


While we were in Santa Cruz visiting good friends, we stayed at the best B&B we have ever experienced, the Adobe on Green Street. Besides being a beautiful old adobe house set on a quiet street in the middle of a beautiful garden, the owner’s of the B&B have created a space for people who hate B&Bs. This was our second stay at the Adobe and we had a great time.
If you are like me, you may like staying in a cozy house in a residential neighborhood, but dislike the quasi-parental eyes of the owners as you feel like you need to sneak in and out of your room so as not to disturb them. At the Adobe on Green Street you can stay for days and never even catch a glimpse of the owners. As far as I can tell they don’t actually live on the property. We kind of wish sometimes we could meet them, just to tell them how much we love their B&B, but that would kind of defeat the whole groove that they have created.

California Part I: Seals!

We had a great time in Northern California last week. I want to write all about it, but I fear whatever gift of narrative I may have needs to be set aside for a less time consuming way of communicating my fond memories. So my posts will be a little scattered and uneven but I promise lots of photos.

First installment: Elephant Seals! These sleepy gals (and a few juvenile males) were on the beach just north of San Simeon molting. Taking a few weeks to lounge around while their old brown coat gives way to a silvery gray. Having grown up in land-locked Minnesota, I found the scene on the beach endlessly fascinating. The volunteer docent on the beach explained that the females and juvenile males hang out near Hawaii when not on the beach in California while the adult males go up to the Aleutian Islands. I guess they are good with long distant relationships.

I’m an old man…

Instead of going to the nearest Metro station one day this week after work I kept on walking to the next nearest Metro station. The weather was so darn pleasant I couldn’t resist. Once DC summer hits I will loathe walking anywhere in work clothes so I thought I should take advantage of it. Plus there is a nice paved path that runs through a little greenway that links the King Street and Braddock Road stations. As I walked along I was in one of those “life is great” kind of moods. Dogs playing in the grass made me smile. The gentle clickty-clack of the Metro on the nearby tracks combined with the weather made me think for a moment that I was in suburban London not suburban DC. And the song birds were busy doing their thing. All in all it was a sublime moment carved out of everyday life.

After a bit, a twenty-something guy was headed my direction on the path and the sound from his iPod buds preceded him by quite a distance. I am guessing that most people have had those moments when someone elses‘ headphone volume seemed excessive. However, I was still surprised at how far his aural spillover carried down the length of the path. As soon as he passed and the sound of his iPod dissipated the songbirds could be heard again, another train went by, and a dog barked. Although I wasn’t annoyed by hearing his music, in a way it was part of the patchwork of sound that made up the moment, but I did reflect on the fact that so many people today walk around plugged into something. Either they are on their phones exchanging inanities, unable to move from point A to point B without having a telephonic audience, or they are listening to music on headphones connected to an iPod. I have my cell phone and iPod, so I am no Luddite, but I can’t help feeling like too many people are so plugged into an electronic world that they never hear the birds singing, let alone appreciate them.

Although only 38, I have long been an old curmudgeon wishing for some idyllic version of the past that never existed. A past where a young Leonard Bernstein was a super star, packages came in brown paper and string, a person had more than one steamer trunk for the Cunard crossing, and folks sat on porches drinking lemonade and eating cookies. Of course in my fantasy-world olden days people didn’t smoke, gays were A-OK, and the Vietnam War never happened. But I digress (a lot)–back to my afternoon walk to the Metro. All I could think when this guy walked past with his iPod was how he was missing out on the birds, and the train clickty-clack, and the dog, and even the sound kids playing off in the distance. As much as I love my iPod, I don’t want to be that disconnected from the world.

In a similar vein, as much as I love the Internet and would have a nearly impossible time functioning without it, I am sometimes nostalgic for a pre-Internet world. When my good friend Ron was in town recently we were talking about our mutual experience working in London right after college. We talked about how different our experiences abroad would have been if email and the Internet had been around. Back then, we would wait to see what mail might come from friends and family back home. Or on some rare occasions a transatlantic phone call might even be contemplated. As a 21-year old moving to another country to work, living with a bunch of young ex-pat wannabees from all over was an adventure in the new and unexpected. On good days it was exhilarating and fascinating on bad days feelings of isolation and homesickness took over. And all of it was experienced without the usual family and friends for support. I can’t imagine how different that experience must be today for college students spending time abroad–at least in the developed world. With regular access to email, Skype, and websites for U.S. news outlets I wonder if today’s student travellers even feel like they have left home.

I am not really sure what exactly I am trying to convey. Maybe I have reached that tipping point where I no longer envy the young. As I slide towards 40 maybe I am finally starting to become comfortable with my place on the great timeline of human experience. Or perhaps it is more likely that I am sliding to that far scarier place where one thinks that everything was better back when.

No Room for This View

The other night on Masterpiece Theater on PBS they showed a new film based on E.M. Forster’s novel A Room With A View. I was more than a little surprised that someone would try and best the 1985 Merchant-Ivory dramatization of the same novel. Having seen it at least 25 times I think the Merchant-Ivory film is one of the most perfect films ever made. Fantastic casting, stunning videography, beautiful soundtrack, perfect pacing, and a wonderful love story to boot. Why would anyone mess with such a work of art?

But, being a sucker for a good English costume drama, I wasn’t about to miss the new version no matter my reservations. I even tried to get over the fact that this new version was presented as a flashback. The movie starts in 1922 with a now single Lucy back in Florence having, one learns later, lost her husband George in the Great War. If that uneeded plot device had actually added something to the story it might have been forgiveable, but it added nothing. Maybe this was meant to be a treat for all those who couldn’t stand not knowing what happened to Lucy and George after they got married. Then, once the filmmakers show that George was killed in the war, they feel the need to tie everything up with a nice happy ending. Apparently destroying the happy ending that Forster created in the novel, they felt they had to come up with their own absolutely atrocious happy ending. Honestly, the new ending is so poorly written it makes movies on the Lifetime Channel look like works of art.

Perhaps even more ridiculous is the fact that PBS fuzzed out the bare butts in the pond scene. I guess they were worried that legions of 11-year olds would sit through an hour of PBS drama just to see a little flesh. I remember seeing the Merchant-Ivory version about a decade ago when it was shown on PBS and they showed all of the nudity, front and back, without fuzzing anything out. I am surprised the new version had a scene where they showed a postcard of Michaelangelo’s David without fuzzing out his junk.

I must admit I did enjoy seeing some of the characters played from different angles than the Merchant-Ivory version. But overall none of these new interpretations were compelling enough to save this clunker of a movie. But what actor would benefit being compared the the orginal cast that included Maggie Smith, Judi Dench, Daniel Day Lewis, Denholm Elliott, Helena Bonham-Carter, Julian Sands, Simon Callow…you get the picture.

Oddly enough the shoe will probably be on the other foot with the new film version of Evelyn Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited. The PBS mini-series is the absolute zenith of made-for-television drama, it is hard to understand why somone would tinker with it. I love Emma Thompson who will be playing Lady Marchmain…maybe she can save a bad idea and make it worth the effort.

What’s Your Type?

I have long been fascinated by typeface design. I think at least part of my fascination may be an outgrowth of my love of all things related to books and the written word. I love the way books look, and feel, and even smell. And I always consider it an extra treat when there is an explanatory paragraph at the end of a book describing the typeface in which the book was set.

Back in college my friend Colin was studying art and design and I was fascinated by the big volumes of typeface collections he checked out of the library. At the time he was heavily into Futura–the same font as all of those letters on Sesame Street. My fascination was with the typeface that was designed especially for the London Undground system. This Futura-like font is unique and recognizable and is used on everthing in the underground from the directional signage to the warnings on the fire extinguishers. When you are on the Tube there is never any doubt which signs are official and which aren’t. The New York Subway system’s committment to Helvetica doesn’t seem quite as unifying as London’s use of the Johnston font. Perhaps it is the ubiquitous nature of Helvetica–it is EVERYWHERE–but I never really thought I was a fan of Helvetica.

That is until I watched the documentary Helvetica. I am not saying I am a total fan of Helvetica (the font) but I am a huge fan of Helvetica (the film). Like most things Modern (with a capital M) Helvetica can be beautiful and perfect when used in the hands of a real talent, and can look really boring and downright bad when used by some second rate hack. The film does a wonderful job exploring the origins and use of the font as well as the Helvetica backlash in the era of postmodern and “grunge” typefaces. For anyone with even a passing interest in graphic design or typefaces Helvetica is a must see.

My Apocryphal Heimlich Maneuver

I recieved this email in response to my last post and the reference to Dr. Heimlich.

Hello Thomas,

I came across your blog item which included:

A few years ago I read a story about Dr. Heimlich of the Heimlich Maneuver fame. Apparently he was ill and reaching the end of his life and had never had the opportunity to actually use his maneuver on a choking victim. Despite all of the lives he had indirectly saved he was troubled that he never got to use the maneuver. So he started hanging out at restaurants and other places where people eat in public as much as possible just hoping that someone would begin to choke and need his assistance.

You may be referring to my September 17, 2005 article, Bankers Club, 2001: Dr. Heimlich To The Rescue? If so, allow me to clarify.

Briefly, reporters at major media outlets – The New Yorker, BBC News, and the Chicago Sun-Times – all published a story that Dr. Heimlich told them, that in 2001 he rescued a choking victim using the Heimlich maneuver at the Banker’s Club, a well-known private club here in Cincinnati. Despite repeated attempts to verify the story with Dr. Heimlich, his press agent, and a Banker’s Club employee who provided the information to one reporter, no one would provide any facts which might substantiate the story: the date, the alleged victim’s name, any witnesses, etc.

So did those major media outlets get snookered? If so, nobody’s talking. For example, shortly after The New Yorker published the item, I wrote and asked them to fact-check what they’d published. They refused. This from a magazine that endlessly trumpets its fact-checking department? I guess their corrections department isn’t as diligent.

By the way, I’m not sure where you got the information about Dr. Heimlich being ill. I understand he turned 88 last month, is in good health, and still travels.

Sincerely,

The Dean of Cincinnati
The Cincinnati Beacon