The only time I had ever been to Venice was over a lovely weekend in October of maybe 1998 or so. Well Venice looks the same, but it was hot and humid. We had had plans to walk like fiends and really explore nooks and crannies. Instead we were in search of shade, breezes, and air conditioning.
Ladies and Gentlemen, if you look out the right side of the plane you will see one of the most amazing organisms ever built by humans.The key is to always look up.Worth dealing with the tourists for a view like this. (Said as if I wasn’t one of them.)And then a gorgeous breeze to cool us down.It was too damn hot to walk to our concert at La Fenice so we paid for a very expensive, but very fun water taxi.A little pre-performance Bellini.La Fenice. Very unassuming from the outside.Just slightly more assuming inside. The royal box at La Fenice.Not royal, but look at that regal woman behind me.She was fabulous.The opera wasn’t on while we were in Venice but I was thrilled to pieces to get to hear Elgar’s Enigma Variations live again. It literally brought tears to my eyes. Oddly enough, the concert was dedicated to the memory of conductor Sir Jeffrey Tate. The last time I heard Enigma live was when I saw Tate conduct it with the Minnesota Orchestra in the late 1990s. Post-performance Bellini. This one was really yummy.Everything is harder when it has to arrive on a barge.After three days, saying goodbye to Venice.Last look at San Marco.That medium size ship furthest to the right is the private ship we were on. See yesterday’s entry for more on that.
While we were in Venice there was a protest against all the big passenger ships that come into port. There are a whole slew of reasons to be opposed to the number, size, and location of ships that call. Many cruise lines start and end Adriatic cruises in Venice, often staying in port over night so guests have an overnight in the city. From my observation, at any given time there are about 5 to 7 ships in port at once at the main cruise terminal. Our ship, not strictly a cruise ship, is about half the size of most of those and has a fraction of the passengers. When we were on there were only about 250 passengers on board as opposed to about 3,000 for the typical cruises that come through. Still it is big. Venice should probably make some decisions about where and how ships access the city, but for now, you come and go right past San Marco. It’s pretty spectacular.
Oh yeah. Here’s another Bellini. (Next to John’s elderflower spritz.)
Looks like you had a wonderful time despite the heat! If I ever get the chance to go back to Venice I should definitely try to see something at La Fenice, it look stunningly beautiful. I’ve been trying to go to more concerts when I travel. Last year I went to a concert at Smetana Hall in the Municipal in Prague — it was so wonderful to hear live music in a beautiful setting that I want to go to concerts in every city.
I found your pics of La Fenice especially interesting as I have a book on the TBR titled “Death at La Fenice” which is the first in a mystery series. Can’t recommend one way or another as I haven’t read it yet, but it came highly recommended to me. My daughter was in Venice last year and complained about the price of the water taxis – since it is so iconic for Venice she didn’t want to miss traveling that way, but felt like they really gouge the tourists for being there. Other than that, she loved her visit. Beautiful pictures! (Wonder if your neighbor at La Fenice had any knitting in that handbag? ;) )
I love Venice but I hate seeing the cruise ships there. Yours sounds like a reasonable size – as are the river boats that pull up near San Marco – but the sight of one of the huge ships chugging through the Giudecca canal is stomach-churningly wrong. It looks gross and out of place in the beautiful city – which is exactly what it is.
hogglestock 
I am so envious. The ship’s library, Venice, La Fenice, the music. Is Venice the most romantic city in Europe? I can’t wait to see your next post.
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Looks like you had a wonderful time despite the heat! If I ever get the chance to go back to Venice I should definitely try to see something at La Fenice, it look stunningly beautiful. I’ve been trying to go to more concerts when I travel. Last year I went to a concert at Smetana Hall in the Municipal in Prague — it was so wonderful to hear live music in a beautiful setting that I want to go to concerts in every city.
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I found your pics of La Fenice especially interesting as I have a book on the TBR titled “Death at La Fenice” which is the first in a mystery series. Can’t recommend one way or another as I haven’t read it yet, but it came highly recommended to me. My daughter was in Venice last year and complained about the price of the water taxis – since it is so iconic for Venice she didn’t want to miss traveling that way, but felt like they really gouge the tourists for being there. Other than that, she loved her visit. Beautiful pictures! (Wonder if your neighbor at La Fenice had any knitting in that handbag? ;) )
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I love Venice but I hate seeing the cruise ships there. Yours sounds like a reasonable size – as are the river boats that pull up near San Marco – but the sight of one of the huge ships chugging through the Giudecca canal is stomach-churningly wrong. It looks gross and out of place in the beautiful city – which is exactly what it is.
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