On the drive back from Peit Oudolf’s garden we stopped at a Pannekoeken Huis in the little town of Hummelo (actually I think it was in Doesburg or something like that, it was near Hummelo.) Had one with Ham and Cheese and then for dessert I had one with Bananas, Chocolate, Whipped Cream, and Ice Cream. Believe it or not I didn’t finish the whole thing.
Month: October 2009
John’s idea of Heaven: Piet Oudolf’s Garden
While we were in The Netherlands, John’s number one priority was to go see landscape designer Piet Oudolf’s garden. Oudolf is the world master of informal landscapes. He uses lots of grasses against a backdrop of shaped hedges to provide structure to garden in any season. In early October with most plants past their seasonal prime the garden was beautiful with even the dying plants adding beautiful shape and color. Oudolf has also worked miracles at the Lurie Garden in Millenium Park in Chicago as well as the plantings on New York City’s High Line.
Oudolf’s wife Anja runs a nursery on the property and made John’s day by spending time chatting with him. She was beautiful and friendly. John’s only disappointment was not being able to buy anything to take back to the US.
Oudolf in Detail
Book Review: Home to Roost at 37,000 Feet
Home to Roost
Deborah Devonshire
Last week while we were enjoying ourselves discovering The Hague, I stumbled across an English language bookshop. But it wasn’t merely an English language bookshop, it was really an English bookshop full stop. I didn’t see any American editions of anything. Everywhere I turned there were editions of books I have only seen on British based book blogs–books that are for the most part unavailable in the United States. When I saw the bright blue Bloomsbury Group edition of Miss Hargreaves I couldn’t say no. The same was true for the lavender Bloomsbury Group edition of The Brontes Went to Woolworths. Although I have heard much about both of these books on various blogs, perhaps most notably on Stuck in a Book, I had made no attempt to order either of them. But seeing them sitting on a table right in front of me I couldn’t resist. And right next to these two little beauties was Deborah Devonshire’s Home to Roost. And it turned out to be perfect reading for the plane ride back to DC. I read it cover to cover somewhere over the Atlantic.
Deborah Devonshire, born one of the six (in)famous Mitford sisters, otherwise known as the Dowager Duchess of Devonshire has intrigued me since the earliest days of my Anglophilia. I remember reading years ago the story of how she and her husband, the 11th Duke, had to get really smart and creative to save their magnificent house Chatsworth from ending up on the auction block to pay off huge death duties. Most things that I have read about her over the years had kind of a behind the scenes quality that I love. When I visit a stately house like Chatsworth I am less interested in the grand history, art, and decoration than I am in the behind the scenes workings of such a large estate. Call it the Upstairs, Downstairs Syndrome. So it was with that in mind that I picked up Home to Roost. I wasn’t expecting gossip mind you, but a peek behind the official curtain was what I hoped for. There was a bit of that but surprisingly the parts of the book that I found most interesting weren’t about the house at all. They were the chapters about Devonshire’s relationship with the Kennedys and her eye witness account of the inauguration of President Kennedy as well as his funeral two years later. I suppose it was behind the scenes after all, but more about where I live (Washington, DC) than about Chatsworth. Similarly her memories of the “Treasure Houses of Britain” exhibition at the National Gallery here in Washington was pretty interesting. I have a vague recollection of this exhibit despite the fact that I was in high school in Minnesota at the time. Reading Devonshire’s account of it I am really disappointed I didn’t get to see it.
Overall I enjoyed reading the book but I found parts of it slightly annoying as well. Some of the chapters seem to be nothing but a list of words that once upon a time meant one thing and now mean something else. There is nothing interesting, enlightening, or even new about this kind of comparison. If I had remembered Simon’s review at Stuck in a Book, I would have known that he had similar feelings. In fact, he does such a good job identifying what doesn’t work about the book that I am going to let him have the final words:
Too often the articles are simply catalogues of complaints, snarking at anti-hunting people, townfolk, American vocabulary, the government – anything any grumpy old lady might moan about. I’m sorry to sound a bit cruel, but there is no fury like a booklover scorned. Some of the essays had the sparks of humour I’d hoped for – when she is writing about tiaras, for example, and book signing. And none of the collection is unreadable – it’s just the tone is consistently grumpy and demonstrating an inability to see the world from anyone else’s perspective.
Bookmark Giveaway
I picked up some very cool magnetic bookmarks when I was at the Plantin-Moretus Museum in Antwerp which I blogged about below. I have all I need for my own use so I have 6 to give away. They are about half the length of a regular book mark, but they fold over the top of the page and adhere through the page with magnets.
Three will be given to first time commenters. Three will be given to repeat commenters. Just let me know in the comments if you are interested and whether or not you are a first time commenter (just in case I don’t remember everyone). Comments must be made by Monday, October 19, 2009.
n.b.: My photography skills are lacking. We have a very good camera so I can’t blame it, but that Jane Austen edition is actually a bright green–not yellow.
The Art and Business of Making Books
During our short stay in Antwerp we had a few hours to go to a museum before heading off to catch our train for The Hague. I was tempted to go to one of the art museums in town when I noticed in my guidebook a blurb for the Plantin-Moretus Museum.
Christopher Plantin (c. 1520-1589) was a French bookbinder who in 1546 came to Antwerp to set up his own printing workshop. It became one of the most influential publishing houses in Europe during the late Renaissance, producing Bibles, maps, scientific books and much else. The museum consists essentially of the printing workshop and home of Plantin and his heirs. It contains a large collecdtion of rare and precious books, and displays of their illustrations. The processes of hot-metal type setting and letterpress printing are also explained. Plantin gave his name to a typeface still widely used today.
I am so glad I stumbled across this paragraph and John agreed it sounded like a good idea to spend our last few hours there. Everything about it was interesting. The story of a family of book makers who were in business for over 300 years. The story of bookmaking during those same 300 years with a great audio guide explaining the whole process from typesetting to proofreading, to printing, to sales and distribution. It also showed how the hosue and workshop evolved over time. And of course there was an amazing collection of manuscripts and books on display aas well as big beautiful library rooms that would make any book lover a little weak in the knees. John took all the pictures shown here but a Google image search comes up with some pretty great pictures.
It is not surprising that the house museum is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This one is not to be missed if you are in Antwerp, or even Belgium, it is a reason to put Antwerp on your itinerary.
Antwerp
I really liked the city of Antwerp. It is a great blend of old and new. Lots of cultural stuff, lots of shopping. We even had really good Italian food for dinner. The cathedral there is pretty spectacular. Even on a dark cloudy day the interior was bright. Plus it is filled with Rubens and other amazing paintings that until recently were housed in museums.











































