Book Review: Curates and Cauliflower

  


Some Tame Gazelle
Barbara Pym

Barbara Pym’s Some Tame Gazelle was the third book I finished reading while we were traveling through southern France. It is a good thing that I am not one of those people who likes to read books germane to the places I am visiting, because the setting of Pym’s novel was in pretty stark contrast to where I had set my butt to read the book. Some Tame Gazelle takes place in an English village in the late 1940s, where the major concerns seem to be about darning socks, the proper way to dust the front room, and the topic of the Archdeacon’s latest sermon. All a far cry from a warm sunny day in Provence lounging by the pool. Of course, this begs the question, why in the world would I want to mentally transport myself from my sybaritic lair in the south of France to the mundane minutiae of post-war village life? Because everything about these industrious, gossipy English villagers fascinates me.

This is the kind of book that is manna for Anglophiles like myself. First published in the UK in 1950 (but not until 1983 in the US), Some Tame Gazelle is Pym’s first novel and it sets the tone for many others that she wrote later. Her books are full of competent, independent, often single women, usually mixed in with lots of vicars, curates, archdeacons, bishops and the like, and lots and lots of tea. A little bit of Trollope, a little bit of E.F. Benson, with dashes of Austen and Wodehouse.

The action, if you can call it that, centers on two middle age spinster sisters Harriet and Belinda Bede who keep house together. Harriet develops a platonic fetish for each of the young curates who pass through the local church over the years. Her interest in nurturing these young men, and an attachment to her life with her sister, keeps her from accepting the many offers of marriage that come her direction. Belinda, on the other hand, has had one overriding, longstanding, and unrequited love, for the archdeacon who she has known since their days at university together.

A mellow comedy of manners, the plot has a relatively gentle arc that is nonetheless engaging and surprising in its way. In many cases it is the routine details of their daily lives and their everyday interactions with their neighbors that are interesting and revealing about these characters. And I am never more interested in the minutiae of their housekeeping than when they talk about food. We aren’t talking Babette’s Feast here, we are talking about the obsession that many Briton’s must have had with food in the days of food rationing and fiscal diligence. These are the kind of descriptions of food that help give British cooking a bad name. Perhaps unjustly so if you consider what crap Americans were eating in the 1950s. There is a scene where the sisters serve Cauliflower Cheese for lunch and a caterpillar is found by their traveling seamstress Miss Prior, in her portion of the midday meal. The semi-polite interchange between master and servant over the caterpillar is hilarious in its subdued way. But for me the real fascination is with the Cauliflower Cheese itself. Some kind of gratin with cheese and cauliflower? A head of cauliflower with a cheese sauce poured over it? Can my British readers enlighten me? What is it? Do people still make it? Is it delicious or is it kind of bleak?

If mid-century middle-class British manners and mores are your thing, Barbara Pym is for you.
    

Sweatin’ it out in Cassis






Our first full day in Provence we decided to hop in the car and go take a look at the ocean. It seemed silly to be so close to the Mediterranean and not go say hello. So we asked the friendly staff at the hotel for a good day outing and they suggested Cassis. My only knowledge of Cassis is that it was a flavor of sorbet offered at Haagen-Dazs back when I worked there in college in 1987. And I guess I knew that it was also a liqueur made from red currants. But that was it.

It was definitely the right day to be at the beach. Hot, sunny, and kind of humid. The only problem was that we really didn’t have all the basics for a good day at the beach. We had swimsuits, sunscreen and sunglasses, but no towels. I lived in Hawaii for two years, I love the beach and am not afraid of sand. But, I don’t like trying to be tourist and beachgoer on the same day. Unless you have a giant bag allowing for change of clothes and a clean, dry, place to change, shower, get rid of the sand, etc. it just seems too darn messy. Plus we had to get on a crowded shuttle bus to get to our car, and we had plans to go to Aix-en-Provence later in the day. It was just all too much. And the humidity had me cranky. I was hoping I had left that behind in DC. In the end John got in the water and I merely waded in up to my short line. Refreshing, but not as satisfying as a day at the beach. Next time I won’t try and cram touring in on a beach day. And we would have thought of towels before we got to the beach and they were charing 22 Euros for ugly touristy beach towels.

Hotel Particulier: Urban Oasis in Arles

When we finally got to our hotel Arles were were pleasantly surprised at how nice it was. L’Hotel Particulier is a great boutique hotel in a very unassuming neighborhood in the center of town. Behind the big wood doors is a courtyard with a really lovely pool surrounded by beautiful lounge areas and a few terraces that go with a few of the rooms. We were lucky enough to get one with a terrace overlooking everything. The bed wasn’t very good, but that is a matter I will save for Trip Advisor.

SNAFU French Style

Well I thought the French high speed train system would run on a tight schedule and missing connections wouldn’t be an issue. And I was wrong. Our TGV from Tours was supposed to connect in Massy (i.e., the middle of nowhere on the outskirts of Paris) to hop another TGV down to Avignon. Unfortunately the first train was late and the connecting train was not. Which meant we got to spend four hours at the Massy train station. But we made lemonade. The temperature was comfortable, the toilettes were clean, food was available, and there was a comfy little cafe table for us to while away the hours. I actually managed to write 26 postcards during that time. It turned out to be time well spent.